Despite it's volcano-loving proclivities, the Maui onion can be grown in a home garden. |
That sinister red volcanic soil produces small onions with unusually
low amounts of sulfer and high amounts of water- resulting in a vegetable extra
juicy and sweet as a mob mistress. In
fact, these exemplary onions are recommended for raw-eating, which makes me want
to one up Johny appleseed by munching away on Maui onions and planting them on
every field I can find. (Ok, to be fair,
the Georgia-grown Vidalia onion is also similar in taste and consistency.)
According to Hawaian folklore, the demigod Maui's grandma lives in the crater on Mt. Haleakala, and one spring day she might yet pour a tide of liquid hot magma death instead of onions down the slopes of her awesomely named home. |
So, has Kruncher’s really made
specifically ‘Maui onion’ chips? Well,
unfortunately, I can’t tell for sure. To
their credit, ‘onion powder’ is nearly at the top of the ingredient list, but
no details as to whether it’s Hawaiian
onion powder (maybe it is, but I certainly can’t tell!), and the rest of the
list is all chemicals of one variety or another with the exception of a hint of
garlic powder. The seasoning does taste mildly sweet, and mercifully
light on salt (unlike many other otherwise tasty onion-flavored products). Some might find themselves wanting to ramp up
the sweetness or saltiness dial, but the principle shortcoming is unfortunately
much more serious.
One of the few flavors I don't want to taste in my food. |
That relatively mild sweet onion flavor is
completely overpowered by the oil that crisps have been cooked in. These otherwise impressive kettle-cooked chips
have been thoroughly soaked in a (non-trans fat) corn oil that reeks of the sort
of cooking oil usually poured on a skillet.
While some may feel that the rough oil brings an authentic touch, it may
simply be that it is too authentic,
and overpowers the flavoring by far.
An excellent image of Krunchers chips courtesy of realfitmama. Note that they don't have visible seasoning. |
This is truly tragic, because in
most other regards the texture and potato crisps are really first class
kick-ass. The blonde potato rounds are
extra thick (up to 2 millimeters!) , twisted and rumpled in beautifully complex
shapes, and wonderfully crunchy in an organically uneven sort of way. As you munch away at them, you can even feel
the (too-strong) oils seeping coolly out of the saturated crisps onto the
tongue. (I should note that the
nutritional information shows these chips to be no more unhealthy than an
average bag of Lay’s potato chips- and these are gluten free!)
Ultimately, the over-saturation of
the cooking oil flavor and the comparative weakness of the seasoning leaves me
feeling that these chips didn’t quite carry the day- Maui onion flavor is a
neat concept, but the seasoning is too subtle and the cooking oil is as a
discrete as She-Hulk before the red moon. The amazing
quality of the potato round does leave me intrigued about trying other Kruncher’s
products; perhaps if I swiped some actual Maui onions and mixed them
together I'd get the complete experience.
She Hulk making a subtle entrance. |
Stars: 2/4
Spiciness Rating: None
Pros:
- Incredibly thick
and crunchy kettle cooked potato rounds impress with their class and texture
- Inoffensive and
light sweet onion flavoring is pleasant and avoids the excessive saltiness
common in the genre
Cons:
- Super-excessive
corn-oil flavoring oversaturates the chips and overpowers the seasonin
- Many will find
themselves wishing for a sweet and possibly slightly-saltier onion seasoning
- It’s unclear that
the seasoning is really very ‘Hawaiian’